When I was planning my route from Antigua to Xela (Quetzaltenango), I asked the advice of fellow travelers and was told again and again that I must stop by Lake Atitlan. Two villages on this scenic lake were continually recommended to me: San Pedro and San Marcos.
After spending several, consecutive nights partying with backpackers, Habitat for Humanity workers, and Peace Corps volunteers, I was ready for some tranquility. After looking into both towns and hearing the opinion of lots of different people, I decided to go with the peaceful village of San Marcos. I only had a few days to kill before I had to be in Xela for class, so I thought I’d relax by the lake for a bit.
The bouncy shuttle took me through tiny villages, winding roads, and up and down lots of hills until I finally reached the little town of San Marcos la Laguna. The view coming down from the mountains to the lakefront is absolutely beautiful. I’d heard that this is the place to go to relax, do some yoga, and meditate.
That was an understatement.
San Marcos is one of those places that oozes peace, love, and happiness. Everyone is wearing billowy pants, dangly jewelry, and flowing cotton. There was someone sporting dreadlocks or playing the guitar at every turn. In summary, Sarah Palin’s nightmare.
Around each corner is a business that specializes in meditation, healing crystals, yoga, massage, or rebirth. Many of the cafés and hotels have names like “Moon Fish”, “Unicorn”, or the word “Holistic” somewhere in the title.
Honestly, it was a little too “Dharma Initiative” for me. I like Bob Marley as much as the next girl, and I loved “60’s Day” in high school. I can down tofu and chug soy milk with the best of them, but this place was, like…far out.
I believe in shampoo. None of my shirts contain even trace amount of hemp. I enjoy yoga for the health benefits (my chi is just fine, thank you). I wear deodorant. I pluck my eyebrows. I’m traveling with a laptop, SLR camera, Kindle, iPod, and hair dryer for God’s sake!
Obviously, I stood out among the sea of dreadlocked, puffy pantaloned, incense sniffing longhairs. No offense…
Don’t get me wrong, each and every one was very nice and helpful. I even met a guy that looked just like “The Dude” who showed me the best photo spots around the lake. I got all kinds of great advice on how to get from one town to the next, which ATMs are the safest, what color soup one should eat to boost your positive energy, and what size crystal best aligns your Chakra. Useful stuff.
In all seriousness, I should probably keep an open mind about these things, and I’m sure I have offended a couple of our free-loving readers with my “evil chi”. I have decided I am either too cynical, or my healing crystal is too small.
Later that night, I ran into a few people I knew from Antigua, and we had a nice chat over mojitos. We listened to some live music and watched a fire dancer. They were also feeling rather “un-Dude” and were moving on soon.
After my second night, I took the ten-minute boat ride to San Pedro. There was a little more happening across the lake, and the incense fog had lifted.
Even though the hippie scene wasn’t for me, no trip to Guatemala would be complete without Lake Atitlan. I would recommend both cities, depending on what you are looking for. San Pedro and San Marcos are both great bases to explore the other villages by boat.
The region is really beautiful and has a little bit for everyone. You can take weaving classes, watch fresh coffee being roasted (and then drink a cup, of course!), take a week-long meditation class, play pool with the locals, or finally have your Chakra aligned.
This is one groovy lake, baby.












From Ayngelina:
ha! I didn’t make it there but I always wondered what it was like. I’m cynical too so maybe its best I didn’t go.
From Gillian @OneGiantStep:
I don’t think I would have done well there either. I remember in Ubud overhearing a fellow telling a tablemate that he had ‘seen his aura’ last night….i mean, really?
From Jill - Jack and Jill Travel The World:
Lol, I can imagine myself being a little amused surrounded by all the hippy-ness. Looks like an awesome place, even it’s been overtaken by ‘unicorns’ and ‘moon fish’.
From Dalene:
Cool! Any place that emulates The Dude is worth a stop…even if just a short one!
From Kim:
Haha, okay, looks like I’m the only commenter that would have loved that place (though Brian, probably not so much)! I enjoyed your story and I think I’ll try to hit that place up on our travels.
From Kim:
@Jill & Kim – Yeah, it was an interesting place. I actually just went back with some spanish school classmates and swam and relaxed. It’s a really nice place once you get used to the vibe. ;o)
From Scott:
Amazing Pics! So, anyway we can sponsor a trip for Ms. Palin down there and then maybe they can keep her!
From Katherina:
I think I would have loved this place! One more to a never-ending list of places to visit… at least for a short stop – meeting someone who resembles “The Dude” is worth it, haha
From Oswald:
Hey – great photos on this site! And nice post. I was planning a trip in that area and haven’t made it yet. So it is good to get the inside scoop. I think I am like you – I like that vibe in medium doses, but it can get pretty pretentious real fast. I wish more people were both mellow and snarky, easygoing yet cynical all at the same time! Throw in some beer and scenery and that would be paradise